Turing's theories about the generation of natural patterns became the lens through which observe HELIOT EMIL's SS24 collection.
Alan Turing, a mathematician and computer scientist, published "The Chemical Basis of Morphogenesis" in 1952, a paper explaining the concept of ‘Turing patterns’. In this paper, he describes how shapes in nature — such as stripes, circles, hexagons and spirals — are formed from specific mathematical algorithms.
Patterns in nature, such as zebra stripes, fish scales, or fingerprints, can emerge predictably and organically. This occurs through Turing instability, where variations in diffusion rates and chemical reactions lead to the spontaneous formation of structures from a uniform starting condition.
Turing's research demonstrated how differences in substance concentrations can originate ordered patterns. This natural algorithm, transforming chaos into structured beauty, is reflected in every item of the collection. The pieces convey these natural patterns through morphed shapes and particular techniques, like laser-cutting, while showcasing nature’s tendency to yield elegance.
Laser-cut techniques
Precision is key in both Turing's mathematical models and the collection's laser-cut designs. The laser-cut patterns mimic the structures mentioned above, reflecting the relation of industrial precision with organic form.
Morphed shapes
Reflecting the natural morphogenesis process, the collection includes pieces with fluid, evolving shapes. These designs are reminiscent of the way natural forms develop from simple to complex patterns, inherent to Turing's concept of pattern formation.
Turing’s patterns are characterized by the repetition of forms with slight variations. This principle is evident in the collection with the use of laser-cut, where repetitive motifs create an H.
The SS24 collection became a visual representation of the correlation between precise, calculated approaches and the organic, “morphed” aesthetics found in nature.
As, in 1950, Alan Turing questioned the ability of artificial intelligence to replicate the intricate nature of human creativity, we’re asking whether AI can truly replicate the nuances of human creativity in fashion. By challenging the common perceptions of aesthetics, the aim of the collection is to showcase how mathematical algorithms can effectively inform and elevate fashion design.
